Qomp/ete Semi no 
Instructions 

Russell 








MAUDE W. RUSSELL 

Inventor Russell System of Garment Cutting 

and Author "Complete Sewing Instructions— The Russell Way' 



COMPLETE SEWING 
INSTRUCTIONS— 
THE RUSSELL WAY 



The Newest, Simplest, and Most 

Perfect Method of Sewing 

Ever Offered Women 



COPYRIGHTED, 1917, By MAUDE W. RUSSELL 
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI 

All Rights Reserved. Including the Right to 
Translate Into Any and All Foreign Languages 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE RUSSELL COMPANY 

912 Grand Avenue 

KANSAS CITY, MO. 

I9I7-I918 






<> 



/ 



©C1.A476691 



^' 



/ / 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



J0r^mor& 




N THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established 
herself as a dressmaker and ladies' tailor and 
continued this line of work until 1910. During 
these years of experience she realized how essen- 
tial it was to the success of her work to have 

a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods 

of dressmaking then in use. 

In 1910 she began to teach dressmaking and then realized 
more than ever the necessity of having some system of pattern 
cutting which all could readily understand. With the idea of 
solving this problem she continued her work and finally brought 
all of the knowledge and principles which she had acquired from 
her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the 
Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting. 

After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected 
this wonderful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she 
offered to the public believing that its use would prove a great 
blessing not only to those who are compelled to earn their liveli- 
hood by sewing but to every woman who desires to be well dressed 
at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money. 

The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical 
test made by it and we are pleased to say that the approval 
which it has received from the public more than justifies the 
faith of the inventor in the superiority of her System over any 
other method of pattern cutting. And by placing this book 
of Complete Sewing Instructions before the people she knows 
that every woman can make her own clothes. 

THE RUSSELL CO. 
Kansas City, Mo., 1917 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



An Open Letter to My Friends 

IN ISSUING the new Russell Text Book of Complete Sewing Instruc- 
tions, it is with the hope that women everj'where will be enabled to over- 
come the many difficulties with which they have been confronted in mak- 
ing their own garments. 

The art of dressmaking and tailoring embraces such a vast scope of 
knowledge that much of it is impracticable for use in the average busy 
woman's life. For this reason my time and thought have been given to 
the invention and perfecting of a system simple enough yet so prac- 
tical that any woman can avail herself of its benefits and easily become 
her own designer and d)'essmaker. 

The work of making her own dresses, or garments for the other 
members of the family, is a real pleasure to a woman when she is certain 
of good results, which can always hd obtained with the Russell Sewing 
Instructions at her command. A great advantage, too, is to have a Russell 
Cutting Device in the home so the daughters, even at the age of ten or 
twelve years, can easily be taught to cut perfect fitting patterns and make 
theii' own garments. 

The instructions have been mads so plain and the Russell Cutting 
Device is so easily adjusted to individual measurements that no woman 
need experience any trouble whatever in gaining a complete knowledge 
of the work. 

By the use of the text book THE RUSSELL WAY, the woman in the 
country home can have the same advantages as her city sister and can 
equip herself to make not only her plain dresses and house gowns, 
but she can also select and make garments having the same dash, style 
and individuality as the more costly tailored gowns. 

Should there be any problem in sewing that you do not under- 
stand I shall be glad to receive a personal letter from you stating 
your problem, and I will assist you in overcoming such difficulties or 
answer any question you may ask relative to the work. It is my de- 
sire to render you all the assistance possible to make your work with the 
Russell System both a pleasure and a success. 

Believe me to be, 

Yours very truly, 

MAUDE W. RUSSELL, 
912 Grand Ave. Kansas City, Mo. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Jntrn&ufltnn 




HE caprice of fashion has; long been a favorite subject with 
the world; for, women have an inherent desire to be 
beautiful, and dress plays a large part in their appear- 
ance and attractiveness. French women, as no other in 
the world, make their toilette their art, and they, alone, 
seem to adhere to individuality in dress, which is the 
secret of good dressing. It is not that they are more beautiful — for 
they are not — but because they study their own limitations, both in style 
and color, suggesting ideas in detail, with the result that they are artis- 
tically gowned, beyond the knowledge of the crowd. Their knowledge, 
too, of how to wear a gown plays no small part in their artistic appear- 
ance. 

Paris has, for many years, been the acknowledged fashion center of 
the entire world, the hub of the world's fashion wheel, the mirror before 
which all art folk and all beauty folk have smiled; but today — Paris has 
a rival. American women are recognized as being among the best dressed 
women in the world. 

America means independence and An:ierican women are coming to the 
realization that individual charm of the face and form may be emphasized 
and brought out, and many defects in face or figure forgotten, by correct 
dressing and the wearing of gowns made on becoming lines. 

Good dressmakers are always high-priced and the continual advance 
in price of "ready-to-wear" makes even that beyond reach of the many. 
Hence, the great need of some method of instruction that will enable 
every woman to cut and make her own garments on becoming lines and 
to her exact measurements. This need has been fully met by the Russell 
method, which, though simple, is complete in every way. 

It is now possible for every woman to equip herself to make at little 
cost every article of clothing she wears, for the secrets of the dress- 
maker's art are hers for the asking. Maude Russell has solved this prob- 
lem for all women, thus enabling them to have the opportunity to learn 
dressmaking and ladies' tailoring in the home. 

Her idea of placing the art of cutting and sewing on a scientific basis 
and making it a part of women's education is rapidly growing in favor, 
for the reason that it is meeting a long-felt need, never before reached by 
any method, or by the use of commercial patterns. 

The Maude W. Russell System of Dressmaking and Garment Cut- 
ting is the only one in the world today that any woman or young girl 
can easily master. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



A World of Opportunity Awaits Any 
Woman of Ambition 



lyiAUDE W. RUSSELL has evolved a plan 
whereby any woman may become proficient 
in the art of dressmaking. 

Many women do not know how to sew and under 
the pressure of the high cost of living ai'e in distress 
of mind as to how they may dress well. 

Do not try to think it out yourself; Maude W. 
Russell has done this for you. 



AY7HEN a woman learns to sew well, she has acquired a worthy 
accomplishment, and when she has familiarized herself with 
all the details contained in this Text Book, she has acquired the 
whole art of dressmaking. 

In addition to this, when she has learned to cut her own 
patterns from any design she may select, and to make any gar- 
ment from the simplest to the most elaborate she may choose, 
she is then able to do her part to further home economics. 

The Maude Russell Device for Cutting meets this demand, 
as you can readily operate it within a few hours time. 

You will find picture of Russell Device and some of its 
advantages on page 92. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Your Benefits 

THE pretty woman is the greatest stimulus in the world. Always her 
cry of "Give ! Give !" has rung through the earth. Not only the land, 
but the sea as well, must give to her their treasures. The beasts of the 
fields, the fowls of the air, the insects and even the wayside blossoms 
must contribute to her adornment. With all these to help her, woman is 
not beautiful, if improperly or unbecomingly gowned. 

With the Russell Cutting Device to aid you, and the instructions 
given through our text books, you are fitted to dress as well as anyone, 
and in clothes .that are made especially for you. With one of these sys- 
tems in your own home, where your time is your own, you are not re- 
sponsible to anyone for the time usedin studying, nor need it interfere with 
your home or social duties. You can make the clothes you need, when you 
want them, and be dressed at one-third the cost of ready-to-wear 
garments. 

American women, who are qualified to lead, refuse to submit to the 
tyranny of fashion. They go forward and the crowd follows, while sim- 
plicity dominates. Equipped with the Russell Cutting Device and the 
knowledge of how to use it, you may become the prettily dressed woman 
who stimulates the world, as well as the leader of the crowds who will 
follow your example. 

The art of dressmaking is an enviable accomplishment, and whether 
you use it in the home, or choose it as a vocation, every woman will ad- 
mire your cleverness and skill, thus giving you prestige among your 
friends. 

You will be made to understand that it is not the woman who 
has the greatest wealth at her command who is the best dressed, for so 
many such women wear clothes which bear no relation whatever to their 
individuality. You will learn, also, that no woman is well dressed whose 
clothes attract such attention that her personality is overshadowed, for, 
clothes should be the frame to the human picture and second in im- 
portance. 

You will learn that an old face never looks so old as under a 
youthful hat, and age is less emphasized by mature looking garments 
that are still becoming, because they add a sweet charm that is the co- 
quetry of age, while young girls are charming only when arrayed in sim- 
ple garments. 

You will have learned all this and have also the added knowledge of 
how to plan and dress yourself and y our entire family in an individual and 
becoming manner that makes personality mean more than clothes. 



10 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 

Important Points on Practical 
Dressmaking 

First — Do not rush while learning to sew, as you are very apt to 
overlook some of the most important things, as well as to become 
nervous and impatient. It is natural for you to progress very rapidly 
after you have familiarized yourself with the details of dressmaking. 

Second — Too much attention cannot be paid to the little points 
of charm that give to your clothes an air of distinction; for example: 
fancy pockets, bound buttonholes, ties, jabots, fichus, fancy belts, or 
even button-trimmings, give smart effects to the ordinary garment. 
These are the items that make ready-to-wear expensive, as well as 
permit dressmakers to charge such exorbitant prices for the knowl- 
edge they claim to possess. 

Descriptions on how to make all the above, as well as a great 
many more, are contained in this book. 

Third — In the making of the first garment, great care should be 
given to finishing of inside seams, snaps, hooks and eyes, buttons 
and buttonholes. By doing this you will never acquire that slovenly 
habit of having to pin your garments, thereby shortening the wear as 
well as attractiveness. It is well to keep in mind in the closing of 
belts and plackets, where there is any pressure on them, you should al- 
ways use hooks and eyes, or hooks and bars, as the strain unfastens 
them. 

Fourth — A moment's time devoted to the removing of all bastings, 
tying and clipping of all threads left by machine stitching, 
and the placing of knots where they can not be seen, will place you in 
a position where your work can not be criticized even by experts. 

Fifth — From the most exquisite gown to the plainest underwear, 
should be pressed before considering the garment finished; every 
precaution should be used so as not to scorch or spot, and never 
place an iron on the right side of the material without first having 
tried a sample to see if it affects the finish. 

Sixth — A good seamstress always cuts the material instead of 
tearing — also just a moment of time given to the pulling of a thread. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 11 



for a line to cut on will save you a lot of trouble — as torn goods have 
a tendency to ravel and it is impossible to use with the hemmers, 
gatherers, and other attachments of your sewing machine. 

Seventh — Before placing your pattern (either a Russell or a commer- 
cial) see that the material is folded — folded evenly; this is determined 
by the selvage, stripes or the grain of the material. 

Eighth — Where you have stripes, plaids, or floral designs, too 
much care cannot be exercised in the matching of them — in some 
cases it will be necessary to change your pattern ; for instance, you 
might have to trim one gore of your skirt and add it to the other 
gore or you might have to raise one gore at the waist line in order to 
start the matching even, but at the same time it is much better to do 
this, as the trimming of the gore that extends upward will not affect 
the garment nearly so much as the unmatched lines. 

Ninth — In the cutting of goods having a nap such as broadcloths, 
velvets, etc., they should be cut with nap running the same way; for 
example, where your material is narrow and your gores wide, it will 
be necessary to cut one at a time — then place the right side of the gore 
to the right side of the material, taking care that the weave and nap 
are carefully matched. 

Tenth — To make sewing a real pleasure as well as a great saver 
of time, you should have a small room or a space in a room, as well as 
the following equipment : One Maude Russell Cutting Device, which 
can be adjusted to any size or form, and cuts to individual measure; 
with it you can select any kind of a picture and duplicate it into a jDer- 
fect-fitting pattern, thereby giving you clothes that are different 
from those worn by your friends, and at a verij siikiU cost ; you will 
also need a few of the following — a good sewing machine, a pair 
of ten-inch shears, a pair of buttonhole shears, ironing board, 
also a sleeve board, a bolt of tape, featherbone, hooks and eyes, 
snaps, pins, bodkin needles, sewing thread, and an assortment of 
needles. With this outlay you will be enabled to either conduct a 
dressmaking business, or do any kind of sewing in your home. 



12 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Advice on Needles and Thread 

For neat work in sewing it is necesary to have definite ideas as 
to the sizes of needles and thread to be used in the different varieties 
of sewing. 

There are several different kinds of needles, of which the follow- 
ing are the most common and most frequently used: sharps, be- 
tweens, milHner's, embroidery, and darning or worsted needles. 

Sharps are long, slender needles, used for basting, gathering, 
darning or any other practical work, while the fine, short needle 
is used for hemstitching, hemming, felling and overcasting. 

Embroidery needles are different lengths and sizes, have long 
eyes, and are used according to the size of thread and material. 

Darning needles are similar to embroidery needles, only larger. 

Milliner's needles are very long and are only used in the making 
of millinery. 

Bodkin needles are long and flat with large eyes and are used for 
running tape, cords, ribbons, etc. 

A good seamstress should always have a bodkin needle handy, as 
she will need it frequently while doing fancy or high-class sewing. 

If you should buy a package of needles labeled Nos. 6 to 9 — in the 
middle you wiU find No. 6, which is used for heavy sewing or for sew- 
ing on buttons; next on each side comes No. 7 and No. 8, which are 
used for medium coarse work, such as hemming towels or heavy 
stitching; on each side at the edge are No. 9, to be used for fine 
sewing. 

The thread must always correspond with the size of the needle; 
for example, when doing fine sewing, hemming and tucking for which 
needles Nos. 9 or 10 should be used, the thread should range in num- 
ber from 70 to 100, depending upon the fineness of the texture or 
material; Needle No. 8, for stitching and overcasting, should carry 
thread No. 50 to 70; for working buttonholes in gingham or other 
materials of medium weight use needles Nos. 7 and 8 and thread 
No. 50. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 13 



The length of thread to be used in the beginner's lessons should 
be at least 20 inches, which will allow sufficient length to pull 
through the edge of material and tie a knot without tangling. 

Where a loopstitch, tailor's tack, or long basting stitch, is de- 
sired, would advise a thread 30 inches long. 

Never cut thread, as that causes a square or blunt end and makes 
it difficult to thread a needle. 

If you would become proficient in your sewing lessons — always 
remember to use your thimble at the beginning. I would also advise 
the closed-end thimble for the beginner as it is much easier, though 
you will find a great many of the best dressmakers and tailors using 
the open-end kind. 

The first and simplest stitches are those knovm as 



"Basting Stitches" 

which are three in number: First, even basting; second, uneven 
basting; third, a sort of combination stitch. 

If you want to be a good seamstress, you should make a very 
careful study of basting; but be careful not to overdo it, as a great 
many dressmaking schools and dressmakers do — so many of them try 
to carry out the ideas of the old-fashioned tailors who cannot get 
away from the lined, boned and tight-fitting garments. Of course, 
tailoring demands more basting than dressmaking, but one should be 
careful not to overdo it. 

The Russell Cutting Device of individual measure eliminates a 
great deal of basting, as the garment is cut to fit the form and does 
not have to be basted into shape — it also allows all seams, thereby as- 
suring you of no alterations, and every seam matches so perfectly, 
each and every part of the garment fits together so nicely, that bast- 
ing is not necessary. Will add, though, that where basting is neces- 
sary one cannot give it too much attention. 

Before removing the basting threads be sure that all knots have 
been removed, as the drawing of them through the material is liable 
to break the thread of the material, thereby causing holes. 



14 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 





Even Basting — Place the two pieces of materials together, one upon 
the other, with the edges even, then pin securely so as to prevent 
slipping or stretching. This is an in-and out stitch and the stitches 

and spaces between are of 
even length, as per illus- 
tration given below; both 
stitches and spaces should 
be from one-fourth to one- 
half an inch in length — 
that is governed accord- 
ing to the thickness of 
the material. 

In basting, always place 
the knot on the right side 
of the material to be bast- 
ed, so that basting thread 
may be easily removed 
when no longer needed. 

To remove the basting thread from the material cut the thread at 
short intervals and pull carefully, always removing the knot first. 

Uneven Basting — Place 
material to be basted to- 
gether with edges even, 
then pin securely. This 
method of basting has 
one short stitch and one 
long, alternating as sko n-u 
i)i the (iccoiii])(n)j/iii(j ilJus- 
trution; place a knot on 
the right of upper side 
of material, and remove 
basting when no longer 
needed. 

Combination Basting- — This basting is used when we wish the 

basting to be very se- 
cure. Proceed by plac- 
ing and pinning the ma- 
terials as taught in di- 
rection for even and un- 
even basting and follow 
suggestions 'm the illus- 
t nit ion — the short stitches 
should be at left angles 
to the long stitches; this 
thread is to be removed in 
the same manner as that 
of even and uneven. 





COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



15 



Running Stitch — This stitch is just the same as the even-basting 
stitch, excei)t as to length. For the running stitch the stitches and 
spaces between should be of equal length, depending upon the 




fineness of the material upon which you sew. Sizes of needles and 
thread should correspond with fineness of materials also. 

^Tlic illnst ration (ibovc will give a correct idea of how your work 
should look. In the running stitch we use no knot, but instead 
fasten the beginning of the seam-to-be, also fastening the thread 
in the same way at the end to prevent ripping. 

Back Stitching- — This stitch is the one our grandmothers em- 
ployed, which so closely resembled machine stitching and was 
made in the following manner: 




Use no knot, but fasten the thread in the manner suggested for 
the running stitch. Take up twice the amount of material on the 
needle from the wrong side that you wish your stitch length to be, 
draw needle thru and insert in material at the point of one-half the 
length of the stitch just taken. 

Again take up and repeat as before — see iUustration above. This 
stitch is used where it is necessary to have strength and security 
in the seam. 



16 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Overhanding Stitch — This stitch is used when we wish to fas- 
ten edges of material together in a secured seam. 




Place edges together, pin and baste. This is an over-and- 
over stitch and is made by inserting the needle from the under 
side and joassing the thread over the edges of the material to be 
sewed. If the thread should be of insufficient length to finish the 
seam, fasten thread by allowing it to run along with the edge un- 
der the first five or six stitches made by the new thread — see 
illustration above. 



Overcasting — This is also an over-and-over stitch and is used 
to prevent materials from raveling at the edge; it is used on the 
edges of seams to be pressed opsn, or may be used on flat seams 




where tailoring work is desired; place the knot on the wrong side 
and insert the needle from the under side. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



17 



In appearance this stitch is much like overhanding, but the 
stitches are longer and farthei- apart. Care should be exercised 
that stitches be of equal length and distance apart 

This is used mostly in finishing inside seams of heavy wool- 
ens or crash, and is especially good on materials that show a ten- 
dency to ravel. 



Blanket Stitch — Like overcasting, it is used for finishing edges 
or to prevent raveling. These stitches may be of even length or they 
may be a short and a long stitch alternating; this stitch is some- 
times called the loopstitch. 




Make a knot in the end of the thread to fasten it and insert 
the needle the desired length of the stitch from the edge of the ma- 
terial; next insert the needle on the right side, holding thread with 
the thumb of left hand so that it will form a loop as shoirn in the 
ill list nit ion ; to turn a corner, work three stitches from the same place 
with the middle one running diagonally from the point where the nee- 
dle was inserted over the corner of material. 



18 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Buttonholing is related to the foregoing stitch, but gives a 
stronger edge than the blanket stitch, even should the stitches be 
placed as close together as the buttonhole stitches are. 




The Stitcli is shown here on the edge of the canvas, but may be seen below, where 
the detail of buttonhole making is explained. 



/ 



•"'^^llj^ 



X-'-'J 




Fasten the thread at the end by taking a few running stitches, 
insert the needle from the under side one-eighth of an inch from the 
edge of the material — hold needle in position with the left thumb and 
first finger — the thumb on the upper side of material with the nail 






against the needle and the finger under the needle; with the right 
thumb and first finger take the thread, about two inches from the 
eye of the needle, and place under the needle point from right to 
left. Pull the needle through. This looping the thread over the 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



19 



needle forms a knot. Pull knot tight by pulling needle and thread in 
direct line with the stitch. All stitches should be equal length and 
thread must be close together. There should be no space and no 
over-lapping threads. 



Buttonholes — First study the material on which you are mak- 
ing the buttonholes, and where it is possible to use an inner lining, 
do so, as it improves the appearance very much, and it is firmer to 
handle; after the buttonholes have been spaced and cut the exact 
size, they should be serged all the way around — this is a short, 
overhand stitch, on some real loose material; would suggest stitch- 




ing around with a sewing machine as it holds it more firmly and 
is less apt to pull. Thia stitching should not exceed one-eighth of 
an inch and one-sixteenth is better. 

The serging is done with the overhand stitch, which should 
be about one-sixteenth of an inch, or if the machine stitching has 
been done, the ovei'hand stitch should cover the machine stitch. 



20 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



The same rule applies to all materials. The strictly tailored but- 
tonhole has the round opening on front; this has to be made with a 
buttonhole punch. 

After you have learned to cut and serge the buttonhole, you are 
now ready to finish. On cotton or linen material use cotton and 
linen thread, always usint;- coarse thread, No. 40 being the standard 
size. On woolens and silk material, the silk buttonhole twist is used. 



First make a knot in your thread — using a thread about thirty 
inches in length, as this will complete the buttonhole without hav- 
ing to renew thread, which would make a bad looking place in the 

buttonhole. Begin at the 
rear of the buttonhole by 
placing your knot be- 
tween the two materials, 
and use the regular but- 
tonhole stitch as shown. 

Great care should be 
exercised in having your 
stitches the same length 
and not to show any ma- 
terial between stitches, as 
the closer your stitches 
are together the neater 
your buttonhole. After 
buttonholes have been 
worked the edges should 
be felled together and 
pressed; this is the final 
finish and should never 
be neglected. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



21 



Hemming- Muslin — First pull your thread to determine a straight 
line and then cut the material, turn over one-fourth of an inch 
to take care of raw edge (this may be reduced to one-eighth on 
fine material) then turn again the width of hem desired and baste 
to position, using even basting stitches. 

After the hem has been basted (using the long basting stitch) 
pull thread from needle without fastening, so as to make it easy 
to remove basting thread ; then stitch on sewing machine. 




Hand Hemming- — Determine width of hem, turn and baste, fol- 
lowing same rule as for stitching on machine. 

Now thread your needle with thread to be used for hem and 
insert between the fold of material; this will place the knot where 
it cannot be seen from either side of hem — use the hemming stitch, 
which looks very much like overhanding, but is made by inserting 
the needle in the opposite manner. 

Care should be taken to prevent the thread from being too 
noticeable on the right side of material. This result may be secured 
by inserting the needle under only one or two of the threads of 
the material before entering the hem edge. 



22 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



French Hemming Linen — Turn the hem, following directions given 
for hemming muslins by hand. Turn the hem back on the right side 



":,i . : : .i':. ., • 


.^■',■■•1 ■;,■;.,„•,.;[■;';■. .. ' :,■■ ■'•;.■,■ 






;..':--Y:'."w>ji:^ 




\ 


/"" 


--X 




^ 


/ 
/ 

/ 

/ 

/ 
/ 


V 


.y 




i'«^y*t»-«*.A.''U-^ 


4-.---., — ■---«-...^.^^^,^^^^^^y'^ , 






i 









of material and crease the edge where turned, using fine stitches; 
overhand together the edges thus formed, turn hem out and press 
flat. 



Roll Hem — This is used in all fine sheer materials, and especially 
where laces and insertions are used. Where the roll hem is desired, 
you should always have the material cut and properly trimmed be- 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



23 



fore starting the work. You should be very careful to roll the 
hem as small as possible and very even, using the overhand stitch, 
taking as small stitches as you can in order to take care of the 
roll h(4n. Where laces and insertions are used, only one stitch is 
taken to secure the roll hem at the same time. 



Patching 

Patching may be done in several ways. We have the hemmed 
patch, the darned patch, and patching on flannel. 




Hemmed Patch — Cut the worn or torn place square; then cut patch 
square, about one inch larger than hole, and match the weave of 
the two materials. To form the hem square at each corner, the 
cloth must be cut diagonally from the corner to the depth of one- 
fourth of an inch, which will give you a sufficient amount to fasten 
patch underneath. Where stripes, plaids or floral designs are used, 
great care should be used in the matching. 

While this patch is used principally for wearing apparel, yet 
it is excellent for bed linens, towels, or any cotton or linen gar- 
ments that must bear frequent laundering. 

In the patching of good or expensive garments the hemming 
stitch should always be used, but on coarse, ordinary garments the 
running stitch is used, as it is a great saver of time. 



24 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Patching- on Flannel may be done by cutting out the worn place and 
inserting a hem patch, but this gives rather a heavy edge to the 
patch ; so it is better to leave the patch flat and sew around both the 
inside and the outside with a catch stitch which is described on jiage 
45 ; this stitch is used also for finishing seams in flannel. 




The Darn Patch is used on table linens, woolen materials and the 
like. It is best in this style of patching to use a thread of the 




same kind as material, if possible. Any worn place is, as a rule, 
more easily mended by darning than in any other way and is also 
less noticeable. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



25 



Cut out a patch of sufficient size, place it and baste securely 
under worn spot, weave the thread back and forth, using the run- 
ning stitch, following the weave each way. In this manner the 
loose worn ends are fastened down — then press well. 

Be careful to not draw the thread too tight, as that gives the 
entire patch a drawn look. 



Darning Stockings and Underwear. — Either baste the material to a 
piece of cardboard, or hold securely over some other smooth sur- 
face. As the garment or stocking is usually worn rather thin 
around the hole, it is necessary to darn it well back from the open- 
ing to prevent the strain of new threads tearing a new hole. 





To darn, use the running stitch and cover as much space as 
seems worn, bringing the thread under and over, alternating each 
time, as shown in illustrafioii. 

These new threads must not be drawn tight, but must be left 
loose enough to allow for shrinkage when laundered. 



26 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Hemstitching— This is a very pretty finish and 
may be used on any materials from the finest made 
to the heaviest of linens or flannels. 




First decide upon the width of hem desired, 
and pull as many threads as required to make the 
width you wish the hemstitched open work to be — 
the space between the edge of the material and the 
pulled threads should be twice the width of the 
finished hem. 

Turn the hem to the line formed by pulling the 
threads and baste; work on the side upon which 
the hem is turned; fasten the thread by taking a 
few running stitches from the left to right on the 
inside of hem turned; hold work over first finger, 
securing it between thumb and middle finger of the 
left hand ; holding the needle with point away from 
you, insert under the number of threads you desire 
(this may range from two to six, depending upon 
the fineness of the work wished) and pull through; 
take a short hemming stitch at the right of this 
grou]) which serves to fasten the hem down. Sec 
ill list nifioii (ihoi'C. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 27 




Gathering — The thread for gathering should be 
double, and the knot at the end should be of suffi- 
cient size to prevent it from slipping through— you 
may use an even running or an uneven running 
stitch. The length of stitches should be governed 
according to the thickness of the material — but in 
all cases the finer your stitches the nicer and more 
even your gathers will be. 

Several stitches should be taken on the needle 
before it is pulled through the goods; when the 
material has been gathered to the required length 
a knot should be placed in the end of the thread 
after the needle has been removed ; the gathers may 
then be drawn to the length desired and secured so 
by wrapping the thread around an inserted pin — 



see I 



Jhist ration nhovc. 



Gathers may be more evenly distributed and 
more easily held in proper form if two or three 
gathering threads are used, ranging 
eighth to one-fourth inch apart. 



from one- 



In gathering ruffles on any straight material 
would suggest that you use the gather attachment 
on machine, as it can be easily adjusted and spaced 
to the amount of fullness desired and is a great 
saver of time. 



28 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Sewing on Lace — Lace is commonly sewed to the edge of the ma- 
terial. The lace should be placed with the right side facing the 
right side of the goods, with the edges even. 







The stitch used is overhanding. The needle should catch just 
the edge of the lace and the edge of the material and the stitches 
should be close together. 

When sewing on lace that is not gathered the lace should 
be held a little full. This may be done by pushing it slightly with 
the thumb of the left hand. 

If the lace is to be gathered, it may be done by pulling the 
heavy thread at the top. Sew on as directed, using a fine, short 
needle with fine thread. 

Insertions may be put in by overhanding to the rolled or hemmed 
edges of the material. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 29 



Insertions may be put in by using the overhand stitch. The nicest 
way is to roll the hem in as small a roll as is possible according to 
the material you are using (per ilhistrafioti, juific 22); in this way 
the one overhand stitch takes care of the insertion and roll. 

You should be very careful to hold the insertion a little full 
when putting on, as lace shrinks more than material, otherwise it 
will appear drawn when washed. 

In the use of insertion on plain materials or ruffles, where 
speed is desired, would suggest the use of the hemming attachment 
on machine; then hold insertion a little full and stitch by machine 
or overhand as preferred. 

An easier and more rapid way of putting in insertion is to place 
the right side of the insertion on the right side of the material and 
baste the insertion to place, carefully basting both edges. Stitch 
on the sewing machine, being careful to keep about one-sixteenth 
of an inch in from the edge of the insertion. Now turn to the wrong 



30 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 

side and cut the material, keeping the line straight half way between 
stitchings. Turn back and crease. Stitch again with the machine, 
this time on exact edge of insertion. Trim close to stitching. This 







^^^B -:" "'~:''4<^^^[^^^H 



leaves the raw edge of the material on the wrong side, but gives no 
inconvenience as the double stitching prevents pulling out. 

This method is especially good for muslin and similar mate- 
rials. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY 



31 



Finishing: Seams — It is necessary that all seam 
edges should be evenly basted before stitching, as 
this precludes any possibility of stretching one edge 
upon the other. Seams may be finished either by 
hemming, binding, overcasting, notching, felling 
or French seaming. 




In all silks and satins, would advise using the 
process called hemming, cy.s- jxr iJhistntfiou (thovc: 
after seams have been basted and stitched and bast- 
hig thread removed, then press the seam open, and 
turn under each of the seam edges about one- 
fourth of an inch. Fasten with running stitches, 
exercising care to prevent stretching or pulling of 
the edges; would advise the use of silk thread in 
this case. 

Where one is familiar with the sewing machine 
this can be stitched down very nicely and will 
save a great deal of time. 



32 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Finished Seams With Binding — This is the only 
satisfactory way of finishing seams that ravel. 
On linen or cotton goods would advise the regular 
bias binding that may be purchased in all depart- 
ment stores, but on fine materials such as vel- 
vets, serges, etc., you may use any of the follow- 
ing materials: nets, cliiffous, i-liiua silks, nrfjaud// or 
iiulici Illicit. 




By using these you will be able to match any 
color or shade. By referring to page 49 you will 
see how to cut these materials on the true bias before 
using. 

These bias strips should be cut from three-quar- 
ters to one inch in width — that is determined by the 
thickness of material you are using; then overhand 
the strips together or stitch them in a flat seam on 
the machine — being very careful to always place the 
right side of the bias material to the right side of 
material of seam ; then stitch one-fourth of an inch, 
or width of presser foot, and turn bias binding over 
this seam, allowing the raw edges of bias to extend 
flat underneath; this is fastened down either by 
a running stitch, by hand or machine stitching. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



33 



Notching the Seams — This method is sometimes used in heavy ma- 
terials and those materials so closely woven that there is little dan- 
ger of raveling edges — broadcloth especially is finished in this man- 
ner. 




After basting and stitching, and basting threads have been re- 
moved, hold seam edges together between thumb and finger of left 
hand and cut V-shape notches as slwnni in the illustration; unless 
you are familiar with this work, would suggest that you try a sam- 
ple before attempting to notch the garment, taking great care to not 
cut too deep, at the same time not using so much space but that one 
V will extend to the other, leaving a sharp point. 

Where any distance is left between it shows a blunt end, and 
poor workmanship — small sharp shears are very essential in this 
work. 



34 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Overcasting- Seams — Press the seam open and trim 
the edges until they are free from raveling. It is 
better to alv^ays start from the bottom of a skirt 
and overcast toward the w^aist line, as this follows 
the weave of the material, keeping the ends of all 
materials running downward, making it much easier 
to do. 




Where you have sleeves and inside waist seams 
you should also overcast in the same manner, with 
spaces between stitches of one-fourth inch, and 
just deep enough to take care of edges; be careful 
not to draw your stitches tight enough to pull the 
edge of the seam. 

This method of finishing never causes a streak 
or worn appearance on the right side of the gar- 
ment and in washing and pressing does not leave 
a slick or shiny appearance. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY 35 




Felled Seams — Baste and 
sew edges together, using 
standard seam which is 
three-eighths of an inch. 
Cut off the seam edge on 
the left to one-eighth of 
an inch, turn the other or 
right edge under, as for 
hemming and press flat, 
then use the running 
stitch or machine stitch- 
ing, the latter being the 
one most frequently used 
— felled seams are used 
principally in underwear, 
men's shirts, shirtwaists, 
etc. 



Reinforced Seams — 

Sometimes where strong 
seams are needed it is 
necessary to reinforce the 
seam by sewing a straight 
piece of the material in 
with the seam, this seam 
should be three-fourths of 
an inch wide; cut off the 
edges as directed above 
and turn in the edge of 
the added piece as for 
hemming; baste or press 
flat and stitch, by hand or 
machine. 





,- ...^ 

i 

f 
t 

1 



36 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




On light weight materials, 

the edges may be turned under 
as per Uhistnttio)} ; but on heavy 
materials, such as linens, and 
woolens the seams should be 
left raw, and then finished by 
overcasting. In coats or jack- 
ets, where lining is to be used 
it is not necessary to finish 
them at all. 



Tailored Seams — These are made 
by stitching the seams and press- 
ing them flat, per ill list rat ion. 

Then on the right side of the 
material stitch any width de- 
sired, although one-fourth inch is 
standard and is usually the best. 
This seam applies only to tai- 
lored coats and skirts. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 37 



Tailor Tacking, or Loop-Stitching, as it is sometimes called, is used 
in making slot seams, pleats, or inside marking of any fancy braid- 
ing or trimming, set-in pocket, etc. 

Placing your two corresponding pieces together, is the only 
accurate way of getting both sides or pieces alike. Where markings 
inside of seams are necessary, this stitch should be used, as it 
avoids mistakes which are often made by the use of crayon or 
tracing wheel. 

Should you be making a pleated skirt, for instance, or one 
where pleats or yoke is set in, place the two corresponding pieces 
together with right sides facing, then place paper pattern on and 
loop stitch through pattern and material at the same time. You 
will thus find it very easy to do accurate work and obtain pleasing 
results. 




This stitch is made by using coarse thread (about No. 40), 
double your thread, using long strands. It is best not to tie a knot 
when loop-stitching, as you always leave a loose end extending. 

Now commence by taking the first stitch about one-quarter of 
an inch and the next one from one to two inches, according to the 
weight of the material, as the heavier the material the longer the 
stitch; repeat until you have gone the length desired. Now clip 
in the center of the long stitches. When goods are pulled apart the 
threads will remain in each piece of material for marking. 



38 COMPLETE SEWING INSTKUCTIONt^THE RUSSELL WAY 



Slot Seam— This is a seam that never goes out of style, because it 
is one that is always practical and attractive. It can be used in 
dresses, coats, skirts, etc., where slot seams are used on skirts; it 
enables you to make an invisible placket as well as the opening of a 
waist, either front or back; this is exceptionally good for some 
styles. 




This seam is made by basting your seams, using the small even 
basting stitch. The half -inch seam is plenty wide; the standard 
three-eighth seam is good, unless you want wide slots. After this 
has been basted and fitted, press seam open, then cut straight piece 
of material, as wide as your seam is after being pressed open, and 
baste it flat, using the long basting stitch on both edges, as per illns- 
frafioii. 



Now press again and stitch from the right side the desired 
width, as per illiisf ration on foUoiviug jxitic; should you be stitching 
wider than the presser foot of the machine, would advise the use of 
the quilter attachment. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



39 




You will find on some materials it is very necessary to stitch 
downward on each side; in doing this it is impossible to use the 
quilter on both sides, as it throws the stitching opposite, but on stitch- 
ing the right hand side of your seam, the quickest and most accurate 
way to accomplish this is to commence at the bottom of the skirt, 
using your quilter or presser foot to gauge, but remove thread from 
the machine needle ; run full length of the seam. This makes a mark 
to stitch on. 

Now remove your quilter and thread your machine needle, and 
you can stitch the downward seam without any trouble; when the 
bastings are removed, that leaves an opening exposing the under- 
neath strip slightly. 

A great many times this strip is of a different color which 
makes a very pretty finish. 

Seams may be finished by binding or overcasting. 



40 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



French Seams — Place the mate- 
rials with the wrong sides to- 
gether, and baste; this will make 
the seam on the ri</]it side of 
the goods. Stitch on machine 
and remove bastings — then trim 
seam to one-eighth of an inch — 
and stitch as sliowii in illKstni- 
tion on right; your seam should 
never exceed one-fourth of an 
inch, and in fine materials can 
be much smaller. 

A great many garments are 
ruined by sewing too large a 
seam and though it does not af- 
fect the fit, large seams are 
not only bunglesome but show 
poor workmanship. 

This is an excellent seam 
finish for any thin sheer ma- 
terial, as French muslins, lawns, 
and organdies. 

Where basting is necessary, 
always remove your basting threads before trimming your seams 
for second stitching; to remove the bastings afterwards causes 
goods to fray and makes a rough finish. 




French Knots — Insert needle 
from wrong side, thus leaving 
the knot on the under side of 
work; hold the thread between 
the thumb and first finger of 
the left hand and wrap around 
the needle three or four times, 
according to size of knot desired, 
holding the needle against the 
material where the thread comes 
through with the right hand; 
hold the thread firmly with the 
left hand and insert needle down 
through the material where it was brought up, tighten knot by pull- 
ing the thread on the wrong side, bring needle through where next 
knot is to be made and proceed. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 41 



Chain Stitch — This is a very simple embroidery stitch used in out- 
lining and trimming. 




Insert needle from under side of material, leaving the knot 
on the wrong side of material. Hold the thread down with the 
left thumb to form a loop. Insert needle from right side at the 
point where it came through and take a stitch toward you, bring- 
ing the needle through. Release hold on loop and draw to posi- 
tion. Repeat. 



Cross Stitch — This stitch 
is used to work out de- 
signs on canvas and is fre- 
quently used as trimming 
for aprons, house dresses 
and the like that are made 
of checkered material. 

It may be done with an 
over-and-over stitch much 
like overcasting, and com- 
ing back cross all the first 
stitches made, or may be done separately a cross at a time as i)i ilJiis- 
t ration. 




42 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




Outline Stitch 

—This stitch 
may be made in 
any one of the 
three illustra- 
ted ways. The 
thread should 
have no knot 
on the end, but 
should be fas- 
tened by taking 
three or four 
running stitch- 
es in the oppo- 
s i t e direction 
in which the 
outline is 
worked. 

These are also known as stemming stitches in embroidery. 



Feather Stitching is used for trimming and finishing and may 
have any number of feather edges or branches. This is occasion- 
ally called briar stitch. 



Insert needle 
from wrong 
side to place 
the knot. Hold 
thread to po- 
sition with 
thumb of left 
hand and take 
a stitch, allow- 
ing needle to 
come over loop. 
Repeat for the 
desired number 
of "briars" and 
transfer thread 
to the left to 
make stem. 

Repeat stitch- 
es, t r a n s f e r 
thread to right. 




etc. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 43 



Sewing on Buttons — One reason why buttons come off quickly is that 
as a usual thing they are sewed too closely to the garment, and when 
the buttonhole is slipped over them they are strained until the thread 
becomes worn. The thread should be double and the knot should be 
placed under the button on the right side of the material. 




If the button has four openings for thread, the thread should 
be crossed on the under side and not on the button. Many but- 
tons have grooves showing where thread should go. 

Bring the needle up through the hole in the button and down 
through the one opposite not diagonal; place a pin across the button 
under the thread and each time in bringing the thread through 
sew over the pin. When sewed securely, bring thread to right side 
of garment under the button and wrap around the thread that 
holds the button to place several times. Fasten end by sewing back 
and forth through the stem thus formed. 





f 



Hooks and eyes may be sewed on with an over-and-over stitch, 
but are held more securely if sewed on as those shoini in the iJJus- 
frafiou (ihoi-c. This is the common buttonhole stitch or loop-stitch and 



44 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSEtL WAY 



it gives a good finish and insures strength. Hooks and eyes as 
well as buttons should be sewed with cotton or linen thread when 
possible. 

Sometimes it is necessary to use eyelets made of thread in- 
stead of the ordinary "eye." Make them by sewing back and 
forth over a space of one-fourth of an inch long. This produces 
a loop and should have four or five threads. These threads should 
now be covered with loop or buttonhole stitches, working from the 
right side to the left. Crowd these stitches close together and fas- 
ten thread securely on the wrong side of material when finished. 



Middy Blouses, and similar garments wherein a lacing and cord is 
used, must have eyelets worked; run a thread in a circle the size the 
eyelet must be and open to this size with a stiletto or orangewood 
stick. To give added strength to the eyelet the edge may be button- 
holed. 

If the eyelet is to be very large, it is well to run in the outline 
thread and to slash with a shaip knife, or scissors, across the diam- 
eter of the circle both ways, forming four right angles at center. 
Open with stiletto, turning corners back on the wrong or under side 
of the work. Proceed as suggested above. 



Tape to be used for hangers should be sewed on in the following man- 
ner: Turn under ends of tape one-half inch, place flat on material 
and pin to position; beginning at the side at the point where the 
turn-under ends, sew around to same point, using hemming stitch; 
sew across tape to the beginning point, using back stitching. 

Tape may be sewed to the edge of towels and the like. {See 
illiistnitiou oil jxif/e 43.) Cut tape required length, turn tape under 
one-fourth inch at each end. Place ends even, one on each side of 
the towel, and sew with hemming stitch. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 45 



Blind Stitching is used when it is necessary to put on facings, ar- 
range plackets, etc., and it is undesirable that the stitches show on 
either side. This stitch is similar to the stitch used in hemming 
cottons and muslins, but stitches are neither so large nor so close 
together. 




Insert the needle between the turn-under and the facing proper. 
Pull through and take a hemming stitch, but do not let the needle 
penetrate to the right side of the material; to prevent this, take up 
only a part of the woven thread. Again insert the needle be- 
tween turn-over and facing and proceed as shown in illustration. 

This stitch is used in silks, satins, light and heavy weight woolens 
and velvets. - ■ - s , - 



Catch Stitch — This stitch is used in seam finishings on flannel and is 
used to stay linings, etc. The work is done from left to right, or 

away from you. The 
stitches are taken as one 
running stitch, one stitch 
at a time. The two rows 
may bo from one-fourth 
to one-half inch apart. 

Fasten the thread, then 
insert needle through the 
material, with the point 
toward you. Take up 
one-eighth of an inch, pull 
needle through, cross to 
left and take a stitch one- 
eighth of an inch Lms;, 
cross to the right and proceed. The stitches should be correctly 
spaced so that your work has an even appearance. See illustration. 




46 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Belts, Pockets and Fancy Trimmings 




In the making of 
the above there are 
three things of great 
importance which 
you should pay spe- 
cial attention to, if 
you wish to secure 
satisfactory results : 

First — After deciding 
on the size and shape, 
they must be cut on 
the right weave of 
the material. For in- 
stance, if they are to 
be on the bias, they 
must be on the true 
bias, and if there 
should be two or more 
of any one of the 
above, they should be 
cut just alike and 
each piece should be 
cut on the same 
weave. 




Second — After being carefully basted and stitched, the corners must 
be cut away by taking a square nick out of the corner, as jxr Hhis- 
t nit ion; this will give you a perfect point (or turn) and a nice flat 
edge. Where you are making round collars, ripples, peplums, or 
fancy set-on pieces, you should take a V-shape notch, an j)cr illus- 
fnifioji; in this case when the goods are turned over the seam fits 
together and makes a flat, smooth edge for stitching, or in cases 
where machine stitchings are not desired it prevents the edge from 
being heavy. 



Third — After this has all been done and bastings carefully removed, 
any of the above named pieces should be turned and basted very 
carefully on the edge of right side of material, and pressed well, as 
this all demands careful and good pressing. If you will pay close 
attention to this you will avoid that puckered, drawn look that you 
often see on ready-to wear, cheap dressmaking and tailoring. These 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 47 



same rules apply to coat lapels and collars, as well as all corners on 
the lower edges of coats or jackets, and cuffs of any designs. 

On any seam that has to be turned and left inside you will find 
that pressing wide open before turning will aid you greatly in get- 
ting a smooth edge, while the material will be much easier to stitch 
or press. It is a great saving of time to make a small roll or pad 
and keep for this purpose. 



Tucks may be put in with fine hand sewing or may 
be made with the tucker attachment on the sew- 
ing machine. If they are run in by hand the run- 




ning stitch, a very fine one, is used. The tucks 
must be marked to insure the spaces between be- 
ing even. 



48 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Embroidery Insertion may be put on in the different ways, as fol- 
lows: Where it has the galloon or hemstitched edge as per illustra- 
tion, would suggest joining to any material with the overhand stitch; 
all insertions containing the hemstitched edge usually have some sur- 
plus materials on outer sides. This you trim away entirely before 
overhanding. 

Another way is to trim the surplus 
material on tlie outer sides even and 
use the French seam, of course revers- 
ing the seam, placing it on the right 
side of the material. This forms a tuck, 
then by placing one or more tucks with 
this, to form a cluster makes a very 
pretty finish. 

These tucks are made according to 
the fineness of your material for under- 
wear, where using coarse material you 
can fill the insertion in by using the 
surplus material on the outer edges. 

For lace insertions always use the 
roll hem and whip by hand or make a 
very fine hem by sewing machine, using 
the small hemmer, then put on by hand 
or machine stitching. 

For coarse lace insertions use pre- 
vious illustration. 




Piping, which is used extensively in the trimming of children's 
dresses, house dresses and aprons, is made by cutting the mate- 
rial on the true bias; fold the bias strip with edges together and 
insert between the facings and the garment where the trimming 
is to be. 



The piped edge should be from one-sixteenth to one-eighth 
of an inch wide. Sometimes a cord is drawn in the piping; this 
is called a cord piping and the piping should be wide enough to 
admit the size cord desired. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 49 



Bias Facings are cut on the bias or 
diagonal of the material. A true bias 
is a true diagonal and may be found 
in any material by turning the straight 
cross- wise thread parallel with the 
straight length-wise thread of the ma- 
terial ; cut on the fold. The facing may 
be cut any width desired. 




50 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 

Facings may be either shaped or bias. Shaped facings are cut as 
the garment to be faced is, though they are narrow. 




When an edge, curved as the one in the illustration, is to be 
faced, it is well to use a shaped facing. 

The seam nmst be slashed, as per illustration above, to admit of 
the spreading of the edge. Necks, sleeves and all curved edges should 
be treated in this manner. 












COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 51 



The Making of Collars, etc. 




Round, square 
or V-shaped neck 
should have fitted 
facings, as well as 
all the different 
styles of collars and 
revers, as per illuti- 
trations. 




When finishing any shape of necks that require fitted facings, 
as where yokes are to be set in or put on, it is always better to leave 
under-arm seams open until this has all been completed. You will not 
only find this easier to do, but a great time saver. 



52 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




On square or 
V-shaped fitted fac- 
ings, the corners 
should be cut diag- 
onally about one- 
fourth of an inch, 
(i.s per iUustration 
on Square ('olJar. 

This allows your 
facing to turn un- 
der without that 
draw n, puckered 
look that is often seen in poorly made garments 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 53 



Corset Cover — To cut, lay pattern with center back on a length- 
wise fold of the material; lay front with center on the straight 
edge of the material, allow for hem; cut on exact pattern line, 




when using a Russell pattern, as seam allowance has been made. 
But when using a commercial pattern, strict attention must be 
given to seams. Hem the fronts, sew shoulder and under-arm seam 
in French seam, face or bind arm and nock and trim as desired. 



54 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



The bottom may be hemmed and a narrow elastic inserted to 
hold it to position, or the desired edge may be gathered into a 
band. 

Where fullness is desired in the front of corset cover: after 
you have hemmed the fronts and placed the two edges together 
ready for cutting, set your pattern back 21/2 inches on material; 
this allows five inches in all, but will give a good lap and the ex- 
act amount of fullness. 

Where band is desired, cut a length-wise strip two inches 
longer than the waist measure, and two inches wide, turn under 
one-half inch at each end, sew on the corset cover with the right 
side of the band to the wrong side of the garment, turn the re- 
maining edge under one-fourth inch, turn the band down as you 
would a hem on the right side of the garment; baste and stitch, 
or put down by hand as desired. 

In the making of fancy corset covers, stitching lace or embroid- 
ery beading around the lower edge and drawing in to fit waist 
line with ribbon is especially pretty, and very easily done. 



Underwear of all kinds, including teddy-bears, Princess slips, com- 
bination suits, petticoats, etc., should be finished with French seams, 
the neck and arm-eyes should be faced or bound and trimmed 
with lace or embroidery in any desired manner. Materials used may 
be crepe de chines, combination silks and linen, linen or fine cot- 
ton. Instructions for cutting these will be found in the Maude 
Russell Text-Book on Garment Cutting. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 55 



Drop Shoulder Waist — This style of waist is very popular at this 
time. The pattern is shown in illustration No. 1, page 25, of 
Maude Russell Text-Book on Cutting, and the design may be made 
of any kind of material. 

If the opening is to be made in 
the front, the front is laid on the 
straight edge of the material; 
fold the goods so that both fronts 
may be cut at once. 

Mark the material with all the 
markings that appear in the 
Maude Russell pattern. Also, 
when using a commercial pat- 
tern of any kind, as this will aid 
you greatly in putting same to- 
gether. The back should be laid 
with the center back on a length- 
wise fold of the goods. Always 
pin the pattern to the material 
to prevent slipping. Mark the 
back of material to correspond 
with the markings on the pat- 
tern. 

For light weight materials 
French seams should be used. 
Run a gathering thread in each 
of the fronts at the shoulder 
seam line between markings. 
This fullness should not be 
nearer than one and one-half 
inches to the arm-eye. If the 
fullness is allowed too close to 
the arm-eye the waist has a 
tendency to drag or fall over the 
shoulder, making it uncomfort- 
able and unsightly. 

Draw the thread to give the 
seam the required length and 
baste the front to the back at 
shoulder point with the wrong 
side of the material together. 
Turn the hem down the front the 
width allowed for, and baste in 
the proper place. If the pattern 
has been cut to the proper meas- 
urements and the seams taken the proper width, there will be no ques- 
tion as to fit. 




56 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



The waist may be cut long enough to allow for a hem at the 
bottom or cut off for band; in the former case turn, baste and 
stitch and insert a narrow rubber to keep waist to position. 

If a band is used, run a strong gathering thread one-fourth of 
an inch from the bottom of the waist, cut a length-wise strip two 
inches in width, turn under one-half inch at each end and baste 
to lower edge of waist, with the ends even with the front hemmed 
edge; adjust gathers properly, pin at intervals, baste and stitch; 
turn over edge of strip one-fourth of an inch, turn up on seam just 
sewed, as for hem; pin, baste and stitch to position. This forms 
a band three-fourths of an inch in width, with a lap at the front 
of one inch. 



Any becoming style of collar may be used with this waist. 
Just one-half the collar pattern is used. Lay the center back on 
lengthwise fold of the matei'ial The neck line of the collar must 
correspond with the neck line of the waist. The collar may have 
a picot outer edge, or may be bound or faced as you desire. 

Pin the collar with center back to center back of waist at 
neck Hue. Do not stretch the collar, as it fits over the waist and 
should be held loosely. Pin to position and baste. 



Cut a true bias facing the length required and baste it in 
with the collar seam. This facing should be one inch in width, 
but can be narrower, according to the material used. 

Clip or slash the seam as directed for putting on a shaped facing, 
turn over the edge of bias strip and turn down on waist, basting flat 
as for hem. Stitch or put down by hand as desired — the latter being 
the better. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 57 

Butterfly Waist — Pattern directions on page 31 of the Russell Text- 
Book on Cutting. But this same rule applies to any commercial pat- 
tern and will aid you greatly in joining seams properly. If front clos- 
ing is desired, lay the pattern on the material with the center back 
on a lengthwise fold — allowance must be made for hem at front clos- 
ing; pin front and back together, folding material so that two meets 
two, three meets three and one meets one. Any fullness found in 
sleeve at back should be evenly adjusted, as it prevents the sleeve 
from straining. Baste and stitch. 






^^ 


Z 




> o 








^^.^ 


kj 




\ 


<fc 


^~^,.^_^ 


^ 




^^^^-^ 


-^ Q 



In sheer materials the French seam should be used. Use any 
collar you may wish. Sleeve may have extra fullness taken up in 
a dart, as shown in flic ilhisl ration, or gathered into a cuff. 

Collars may be made in any plain or fancy design. Care must 
be taken that the neck of waist and neck of collar shall correspond 
in size and shaping. The outer edge of the collar may be picoted, 
faced, bound or trimmed with braiding or lace edging. 

This pattern is used as the foundation for waists with the 
large arm-eyes, for raglan lines, and in many instances for fancy 
blouses of different stvles. It is finished around waist same as 
drop-shoulder waist. The finishing of all waists is the same. 



58 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Plain Two-Piece Sleeve— Measure up from hand the number of 
inches necessary to locate the elbow point, on the outside seam of 
under-arm section; see iUiistration. 





Place a mark two inches above and one two inches below the 
elbow point, pin upper and lower sleeve sections together for in- 
side seam, beginning at the top; pin outside seam edges together, 
beginning at the top and pinning down to first mark above elbow 
point, then commence at the hand or lower part of the sleeve, and 
pin upward to first mark; that will give you a distance of four 
inches, which provides for the entire curve of the elbow. On woolen 
materials this should be taken out by shrinking (shrinking is done 
by dampening fullness or gathers, and placing a heavy cloth over 
same and using a hot iron parallel to gathers) the same method be- 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 59 



ing used in shaping top of sleeve for arm-eye; in silks or wash 
materials, where two-piece sleeves are desired, the fullness is taken, 
care of by very fine gathers for this same distance. This space 
is properly regulated by the Maude Russell System, but this same 
rule applies to commercial patterns. 



Putting in Sleeves — One of the most important things found in 
dressmaking and tailoring is making of sleeves and properly 
adjusting same. Since having previously learned all the details in 
the making of sleeves, it is now necessary to know how to put them 
in properly. 



The following rule applies to all sizes and styles: 

Place the front seam of sleeve to the proper place of arm-eye 
in front of waist; this is found in all sizes by commencing at the 
under-arm seam and extending forward to the first turn upward. 
Now place your front seam of sleeve, then pin upward within four 
inches of shoulder seam; now pin backward all the way around 
within two inches of the shoulder seam at the back of the waist; 
hold all gathers or fullness between these two markings — always 
keeping in mind that the fullness in front of shoulder seam should 
be twice as much as in back. On extremely large arm-eyes the 
gathers or fullness may be placed a greater distance than specified 
to give comfort at arm-eyes. 



60 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Making- of Girdles— A skirt cut by the Russell System will always fit 
perfectly at the waist and hips, but to retain its shape depends en- 
tirely upon the way in which you finish and mount same. 




No. 2 




No. 1 



A properly made girdle is a great aid in both 
the fit and comfort of your skirt, and one made 
in the following manner will never fail to give 
entire satisfaction. For wool or silk, take linen 
crash or canvas; for any colored material, would 
suggest the linen color; in delicate colors or white 
would suggest white; for wash materials take 
Indian-head muslin or plain linen, (would advise 
either white or linen color in this case, as it will 
not fade in washing). 

Use one-third or one-half yard, according to 
width, for large waists; you will have to piece it 
once, but by stitching the selvages together, as 
it will naturally come in cutting true bias, it 
does not affect the wear or appearance. 

Now fold it on the true bias, r^s• pn- iIJi(stra- 
fioii for cutting true bias, and cut about two 
inches larger than your natural waist around, 
and about four inches in width — for extremely 
high waist lines you may cut wider; now crease 
this through the center and stitch a piece of 
straight tape, or if you should not have handy the 
straight tape you may use a straight piece of 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RITSSELL WAY 61 





muslin one inch wide, turned 
under on both edges; this se- 
cures your waist line from 
stretching ; take f eatherbone 
and cut it in the same lengths 
your girdle is in width, stitch 
it five inches apart, full length 
of girdle; the better way is to 
start at center of girdle, ex- 
tending within five or six 
inches of the end {sec ilhts- 
trafion No. 1), then place the 
girdle around your waist, and 
pin tight; that shapes it and 
fits it; mark where your pins 
are placed and cut off any 
surplus goods, now stitch 
featherbone to each edge of 
this after you have turned 
the edges back covering raw 
seams with featherbone at 
openings. {Sec illiisfrdfioii Xo. 
2.) 

You will find on all feather- 
bone that there is a soft edge 
allowed for the stitching 
down with the machine; take 
bias tape or thin material cut 
on a true bias and bind both 
edges, exercising great care 
not to draw the edges, as that 
will make it tight; sew hooks 
and round eyes and allow them 
to extend out the distance of 
the eye, which makes it very 
easy to hook. (»SV<" iJhist ration 
Xo. 3.) 



^":•■/•^^' 



\o. :5 



No. 4 



62 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELI- WAY 



Mounting Skirts — To mount the skirt, should you not want a belt, turn 
the top of skirt under and put it down by hand ; where heading is de- 
sired make it any width that is becoming, according to prevailing style, 
and stitch to top of girdle, then put skirt down by hand, covering 
seam where heading has been stitched. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 63 



Where belt is to be used in any width, first stitch skirt to 
girdle with raw seam, have the belt completely finished and pressed, 
baste to the girdle, covering the seam on right side, then put it down 
by hand, using the feather-stitch on wrong side and blind stitch on the 
right side; see illustrations below. 







r 


IH 


r 


■ 


■ 


^^ 


^ 


/ 






, 
















1 

i 


s 
r 


1 


.__ 




"" - ^. — J 


i 

; 
1 











For fancy gowns you may usa silk or ribbon, by taking small 
darts at waist line and stitching featherbone over them. This 
gives a very pretty inside finish but should not be as tight as the 
bias-fitted girdles. 




Use this girdle for all one-piece dresses, and your dress will 
wear much better and have the appearance of first-class workman- 
ship. {See ilh(stnilio)i on jhujc 64.) 



64 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




When a dress has been cut by the Russell System and mounted 
on the Russell girdle, it will always hold the shape and lines when 
either sitting or standing. Another great advantage is, the skirt 
will not wrinkle when sitting or form wrinkles like a skirt cut 
to standard measure or by commercial patterns. Sec ilhiHtration. 
above. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 65 

One-Piece Dresses, By using the Russell Girdle in any one-piece 
dress, from a plain house dress to the most exquisite gown, you will 
find three great advantages: 

1st. It gives more comfort to the wearer, as well as prevents 
slipping and pulling out of shape, especially at the arm-eyes and 
under the arms, where one-piece dresses have a tendency to always 
pull out of shape. 

2nd. The girdle protects all the strain on the dress regardless 
of the weight of material, thereby giving twice the service usually 
obtained in dresses not fitted with girdles or ready-to-wear. 

3rd. It gives a beautiful waist line finish — the girdle takes care 
of all raw seams on the wrong side of the dress, and by using any of 
the following outside finishing: belts, plain, either wide or narrow, 
crushed or pleated, beaded or draped girdle effects, you will have a 
pretty and substantial finish on the right side. This will aid espe- 
cially the stout figures in obtaining a neat and stylish waist line. 



Making Skirts — The most important thing in 
skirt making is to have good lines and in order to 
get these, the goods must be cut on the right 
grain, or "on the right weave" as some would say. 

You can always feel that you are right and 
that you will get good lines if you use the Russell 
Cutting Device, as it cuts to ])erfect lines and elimi- 
nates the worry of hanging the skirt, and watching 
the weaves. It puts every style to your individual 
measurement, marking the exact length for hem as 
well as allowing all seams; but in using commercial 
patterns great care must be exercised as they are cut 
to standard measurements and it depends entirely 
upon your knowledge of placing them on the ma- 
terial as to what the results will be. 

In sewing up skirts be very careful to get the 
correct gores together. This can be done by num- 
bering them as you cut, being sure to place corre- 
sponding numbers before basting or stitching. By 
following instructions on pages 66 and 67 you will 
eliminate all difficulty in getting seams together 
properly. Baste the edges, taking care neither to 
stretch or full either edge. 



66 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 

Cutting Skirts — When cutting skirts by the Russell System, or any 
commercial pattern, on skirts from three-piece to seven gores, you will 
find giving a gradual slope of four inches on the side and back gores 
you will have a perfect line as well as the right grain of material 
and both seams will be almost on the same weave. This is determined 






C3 






St 



Si3 



O 

-K. 
*0 




by marking the exact length you wish skirt to be and placing that 
point on the straight or selvage of the material, then mark four inches 
back at top of pattern and cut on the straight line as per iUusf ra- 
tion above. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRliCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 67 



This should also be followed on petticoats, or Princess slips, to 
prevent sagging when laundered. Front gore should always be cut on 
fold of the material. 






5j 



I 






Is. 










On seven gores and upward to the extent of fifteen gores the 
slope of two and one-half inches is sufficient; same is determined 
by following the same rule given for three to seven-gore skirts. 



68 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



In the cutting of materials by the Russell Cut- 
ting Device the goods are always cut so the seams 
when finished will be almost on the same grain 
of the material; then when sewed and pressed the 
seam will hardly be noticeable — also when wash- 
ing, ironing, or cleaning it will never sag on one side 
of the seam and pull and pucker on the other. If 
you are forced to use a commercial pattern, try and 
select a style that will not give you one straight edge 
and one bias. 

There are few skirts where we find the seams 
very bias over the hips — these are two-piece with 
seams on the hips. Although you will find in most 
three and four-piece skirts that they have bias seams 
over the hips, all others have the seams running 
very much the same. 

Where you have the bias seams, sew them very 
carefully, press well and then hang up for a short 
time in order to let the skirt sag before putting the 
hem in and you will not be bothered with an uneven 
hem afterwards. 

The three-piece skirts are good for petticoats, 
as the seam in back allows for sitting and keeps 
the skirt from wearing. 

Full details on how to finish seam on all kinds 
of materials will be found on pages 31 to 34; would 
suggest that you make a thorough study of the 
kind you wish to use, before starting the garment. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 69 



Hemming of Skirts — Nothing adds more to the attractiveness of a 
skirt or dress than an even, well-finished hem. This can be accom- 
plished very easily if the Russell Cutting Device is used, as it 
properly marks in and allows the standard three-inch hem, thereby 
eliminating all the worry of trying to get the hem even. 

But if you wish to use a standard or commercial pattern I 
would suggest that you do as follows: After the skirt has been 
properly finished and pressed, put it on and adjust to girdle as you will 
wear it, take a straight ruler and mark as many inches from floor, 
according to the prevailing style and the length that will look 
best on a figure of your height. 

For marking, either crayon or pins may be used. After this 
has been done, baste with a long basting stitch along lines of 
marking, press the hem in and mark three and one-fourth inches 
and trim even. As the skirt is wider at the bottom than at the place 
where turn is made, you will hai^e some surplus material; the seam 
of hem should correspond exactly with seam of skirt and all full- 
ness must be placed between. This extra fullness in all silks, wash- 
goods, and satins can be taken care of by small pleats, or fine 
gathers. 




lIcMLMII'll 1)V Hillld 



70 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Shrinking Fullness of Hems — In woolen materials it should be shrunk 
out by running fine gathers and placing damp cloth and pressing par- 
allel with gathers. 




.Stiluhi'il by Mai-hinc 



In materials where it is necessary to put the hem in by hand 
would suggest the use of the overhand or the catch stitch, being 
very careful not to allow the thread to show on the right side of 
material — the catch stitch being the better one for heavy materials 
and velvet; where machine stitching is used for hems, would sug- 
gest stitching on the wrong side and very close to the edge of turn- 
under. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 71 



On any heavy materials where machine stitching is desired, the 
ribbon or tape finish is exceedingly good. This is done in the follow- 
ing manner: 




The tape or ribbons should be about three-eighths of an inch 
in width, and never to exceed one-half inch in width; after having 
your hem trimmed even, gathered, pleated, or shrunken, to fit skirt, 
place a piece of cardboard between hem and skirt; now baste your 
tape or ribbon to the hem edge, then baste to the skirt and stitch; 
this gives you two rows of stitches, but where one row is desired, 
you should stitch tape or ribbon to the hem before stitching to skirt. 




Exercise great care in prossaig, as a well-pressed garment al- 
ways adds much to its attractiveness. 

Silks, satins, and most light weight cottons and linens should 
be pressed with a hot iron, but no water should be used on the gar- 
ment until you have tried a sample, determining if the water will 
affect the finish or spot the material. 

Seams in velvet may be pressed by the process called steaming 
— place a n:oist cloth over the edge of the hot iron and pull the 
wrong side of the open seam over until dry, this keeps the pile 
raised and does not mar the lustre; pan velvets may be pressed 
as silks, satins, etc. 



72 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




Making of Plackets is 

highly important, and by 
adhering strictly to the fol- 
lowing rule, you will al- 
ways have a smooth well- 
finished placket. The 
placket should be twelve 
inches in depth (for me- 
dium hip size, which ranges 
from forty to forty-six 
and over. Where hip meas- 
ure is under forty, use 
eleven inches for placket). 

After the skirt has been 
fitted, take off and stitch 
the seams, except seam 
where placket is to be; this 
you stitch within twelve 
inches (or eleven, which- 
ever you may use), then tie 
machine thread; now baste, 
starting even with machine 
stitching to the waist line, 
press all seams flat — 
pressing the basted seam 
as well as the stitched 
ones; this establishes an 
exact line for the placket, 
pull out the basting thread 
to open the placket — care- 
ful attention should be paid 
to the pulling of bastings 
as given elsewhere in this 
book. 



Basted for jirc.ssing to mark exact line 
for placket. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 73 



Cut a straight piece of the material two and one-half inches wide, 
and a fraction longer than placket is to be; this is to be the binding 

for the left or under 
edge of the placket; baste 
to the placket edge, plac- 
ing the right side of the 
strip to the right side of 
the skirt, and stitch. Be 
sure that your basting and 
stitching comes exactly on 
the crease made by former 
pressing, press seam open, 
turn the edge of the strip 
under one-fourth an inch, 
turn the new edge over to 
meet the stitching line, us- 
ing overhand-stitch for fin- 
ishing. 

For the right or upper 
edge cut a strip one and 
one-half inches wide and 
the length of placket, baste 
and stitch it to upper side 
of placket edge with right 
sides together; care should 
be taken here to follow 
crease made by pressing; 
remove basting threads 
and press open, turn edge 
or facing down one-fourth 
inch, turn facing on the 
line of stitching and baste 
to position, fasten to place 
by careful blind-stitching 
and press; finish at the 
lower end by catch-stitch- 
ing the binding to the fac- 
ing, on the wrong side, 
overcasting ends to keep 
them from raveling. 




74 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



This is a standard rule for plackets, but on very thin materials, 
where plackets show 
through, it can be much nar- 
rower, if care is given to fas- 
tening. 

Fastening for Plackets— 

The snaps are more suit- 
able, as they are flat, but 
in the using of any kind of 
fastenings the weight of 
material should be given 
careful consideration, so 
as not to use a heavy fas- 
tener on thin material or 
a very small fastener on 
heavy material; hooks may 
be used very satisfactorily, 
where you have the flat 
bars to use with them. 

If you wish to secure a 
smooth tight-fitting plack- 
et, too much attention can- 
not be given to the proper 
spacing of any fasteners 
used; should you have them 
a little farther apart on 
the lap of placket than 
binding, your placket will 
draw, throwing the whole 
seam out of order; should 
you have them a little 
farther apart on outer edge 
of placket than binding, the 
goods will stand open be- 
tween fasteners and expose 
very poor workmanship. 

Also be very careful that 
your thread used for fas- 
teners never shows on the 
outside of placket. 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 75 



Shrinking of Materials — All wash goods should be properly shrunk- 
en before cutting, as so many beautiful garments are ruined because 
they were not shrunken before the making. 

Where this is done by home method great care should be 
taken not to pull or stretch the weave of material. The best way 
is to have a reliable laundry do this, as it will only cost about 
one cent per yard. 

In the buying of woolens you should always be sure to ask if 
they have already been shrunken. If not, before cutting them have 
same properly shrunken, as this will avoid future trouble and insure 
from spotting by water. 

If done at home use a damp cloth over the wrong side — being 
very careful to cover all the material and press dry. Most stores 
have a machine for this purpose for the convenience of customers — 
but if not, would advise that you take it to some reputable tailor, 
as the charge will be very small, and will probably save you the 
cost of the material. 



Plaits are very popular but most of us dread the pressing incident 
to damp days and general wear. However, this may be overcome in 
a large measure if the under or inside edges of the plaits are 
stitched on the machine about one-sixteenth of an inch from the 
edge. This gives the plait the appearance of having been freshly 
pressed and is of great aid in pressing, as every plait falls easily 
to its proper crease. 

This is an excellent way to treat the plaits in little girls' tub 
frocks and may be done on the right side edge as well as the wrong 
side, if a very fine cotton thread of the same color as the gar- 
ment be used for the stitching. The stitching must be very close 
to the edge of the plait. 

Plaits put in by the Russell method will not require the stitch- 
ing, as they have been propely placed on the grain of the material 
and will not sag or get out of place. 



76 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Pocket in Coat Lining — A well-made coat should never be fin- 
ished without an inside pocket, which may be put where most con- 
venient to the wearer. It is made in the lining; first cut a strip 
of material two inches wide either straight or bias, fold in the 
center and press flat; the ends should be sewed and turned, or 
turned in and whipped very carefully together. Now pleat in 
small pleats not to exceed one-half inch. Have your pleating to 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 77 



be at least five inches in length and not to exceed six inches. Baste 
pleating on the lining exactly where the pocket is to be and now 
take two pieces of materials — would suggest same as lining, hav- 
ing them about one-half inch wider than pleating is — baste one 
piece with corresponding edges of pleating, with about one-half 
inch seam; the other piece should be basted just opposite, with 
edges meeting; stitch with sewing machine, on both edges, just 
the width of pleating, then slash between. 




78 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Have your pleating 
extend downward for 
first basting on the 
coat, and then when 
slash and turn is 
made, it turns the 
pleating upward as 
per iUustratioti. Now 
turn both pieces for 
pocket lining through 





this slash, and stitch 
any shape desired un- 
derneath; the round 
finish is better. Press 
nicely and finish each 
corner with an arrow- 
head, or straight bar, 
made with buttonhole 
twist. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 79 



Coat Pocket With 
Flap — For making 
flaps, cut a piece of 
material six inches 
long by three and one- 
half inches wide, then 
sew a seam one- 
fourth inch wide, 
turn, baste close and 





press, then stitch 
down one-fourth inch 
from the edge — take 
another piece six and 
one-half inches long 
by two and o n e- 
fourth inches wide, 
baste this with your 



80 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



flap on the right side 
of coat and stitch one- 
fourth inch and the 
length of flap, tie 
your thread on the 
wrong side and cut 
your material be- 
tween stitching, turn 
your lower facing in 
and baste firmly with 
one-eighth inch ex- 
tending; turn your 
flaps down and baste 
at upper edge, then 
press with a damp 
cloth on the wrong 
side of coat, sew your 
pocket lining in place 
and finish pocket on 
wrong side. 

The top or bust 
pocket is made in the 
same manner, only 
flap is five and one- 



:^: Jt OBff wj ii .^> ^-v, , 





half inches long and 
two inches wide and 
reversed, the flap is 
sewed on the lower 
side of pocket and 
turned up — the ends 
being blind stitched 
in place. The wrong 
side for bust pockets 
with flap or without 
are stitched in the 
same manner as iUus- 
tration shown for 
pockets with flaps. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 81 



Pockets Without Flaps — 

Cut two striijs of materi- 
al six and one-half inches 
long and two inches wide, 
baste into position and 
stitch one-fourth inch 





from edge and within one- 
half inch from ends, cut 
materia] and turn, baste 
firmly with one-eighth 
inch of facing extending, 
then overcast edges to- 



82 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



gether, press firmly and 
proceed to make pocket 
on the other side. 

Bound buttonholes are 
made in a similar way — 





the ends being fastened 
with an arrow-head or a 
straight bar. The secret 
of making pockets and 
buttonholes lies in the 
pressing. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 8.? 



Coatmaking 



Place the pattern for front section with the center front on the 
lengthwise edge of the material. As in all other cutting, the cloth 
should be doubled and both front sections cut at once, being very care- 
ful to place the straight edges of the goods together, seeing that the 
grain of the material is placed exactly the same the nap (when using 
material with nap) extending downwards. 

The front side body is placed on the goods with the straight line 
of the material running parallel with the center of the section. Pin 
pattern to the material to prevent slipping and cut. 

Place the center back section with center back on the lengthwise 
fold of the material, and cut; the back side body should be placed 
the same as the front side body, seeing that the straight line of the 
material runs parallel with the c enter of section. 

Should you be using the Maud Russell Cutting Device keep in 
mind that you only have three-eighths of an inch seam allowance, 
which is standard; should you want more you will have to make 
your own allowance. It is well to always know the size seam the 
pattern allows before starting to make the coat. 

The above pertains only to the outer part of the coat or to the 
coat without lining; but on strictly tailored coat, where a lining is 
required, the following suggestions should be adhered to very closely. 

Cut the fronts and front side body from tailor's canvas. The can- 
vas should first be shrunken. Side front of canvas should be cut to 
extend only about two or three inches down, on the under-arm seam, 
and should be sloped gradually toward the front seam, extending 
two inches below the waist line — po' iUustraUoyi next pctcje. 



84 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 




Now baste your 
coat together, and 
try it on — then if 
there are any de- 
sired changes to be 
made, they should 
be made in this fit- 
ting (should you be 
making a tight fit- 
ting coat some care 
should be given for 
the allowance for 
the lining) ; care- 
fully remove your 
bastings and cut 
your canvas and lin- 
ing — t he lining 
should be cut ex- 
actly as the coat 
with the exception 
of the front which 
extends back on the 
facing of the coat — 
a saving of material 
can be made here by 
a little study. 

Sew your front 
and side body of 
coat together, also 
the corresponding 
pieces of canvas — 
seams to be pressed 
in accordance with 
style. For instance 
if a tailored coat is 
being made, the 
strictly tailored 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 85 



seam should be 
used, (IS per ill iisf ra- 
tio)! on tailored 
seams, always hav- 
ing the seam extend 
toward t h e a r m - 
eyes, both fro m 
back and front. If 
the coat is to be soft 
finish, the same 
should be pressed 
flat. In the making 
of all coats an d 
jackets, the seams 
should be slashed. 

If the coat is to 
have pockets, lay 
the coat fronts to- 
g e t h e r, matching 
them very care- 
fully, and mark the 
desired places for 
pockets with chalk; 
then tailor tack as 
per ill Ksf ration, on 
making tailor tacks 
or loop-stitching. 

Any style pocket 
may be used, ac- 
cording to prevail- 
ing style, full de- 
tails being given for 
pocket making i n 
this book. After 
pockets are finished, 
press and baste 




86 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



your coat to canvas, 
being very careful 
to not have any 
wrinkles either in 
canvas or material. 
If bust forms are 
used they should be 
pressed into shape 
and inserted at this 
time, before p r o - 
ceeding any farther 
with the coat. 



Half of CoUar 




COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 87 



Basting and Pressing 



Two Things of Great Importance in Tailoring are Basting and 
Pressing. Now the front of coat and lapel should be made. Com- 
mence by trimming one-half inch from edge of coat front, baste 
your stay- tape (or straight edge) on and fell it to canvas. Mark 
your lapel where turn is desired and pad, using padding-stitch 
— the padding-stitch is made by keeping the thread on canvas 
and just catching enough to hold, without exposing the thread on 
the outside of the material. 

Stitch back of coat and canvas the same as the front and baste 
shoulder seams — the front seam should be stretched on to the back of 
coat one-half inch (as every one is inclined to be slightly sunken on 
front shoulder seam and round on the back of shoulder seam.) Stitch 
on the machine, remove bastings and press. 

By stitching on both sides of seam the width of presser foot 
makes a pretty and substantial seam. Now stitch under-arm seam, 
slash and press. 

The collar should be made next, and is done by cutting your 
canvas exactly the same and trimming all the way around three- 
eighths of an inch, as per illustration; now stitch on the sew- 
ing machine as per illustration for the break collar, and pad the re- 
mainder of collar as lapel. Sew into position and press. 

A good suggestion is to determine the center of collar and 
center back of coat and place two corresponding notches together 
and baste outward; this insures both sides being even. 

Next, determine where you wish the buttonholes to be and space 
them, cut canvas out as per ?7/«.s'frf///oH and fell a piece of hning over 
canvas to work buttonhole through, as per illustration on buttonhole 
work. 



88 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Sew your front facing and collar facing in place, the facing 
to the right side of the coat side, being very careful to baste 
even ; stitch on sewing machine and remove bastings ; now trim half 
of remaining seam of coat front away, turn, baste around edge 
of collar and coat firmly with two rows of basting, then 
press ((-s per iUastratio}i on jrressiwj of irooJcn nidlcridh. 

Turn coat even around bottom with hem about one inch and fell to 
the coat and press. Baste your lining in the coat after making a 
neat pocket as per illustration on inside coat pockets — page 76. 

Seams of lining should be slashed the same as coat and basted 
very carefully, leaving it a fraction looser than outside of material; 
this allows the lining to wear longer and gives a better appear- 
ance to the garment; fell all seams, using a fine, short needle 
and a fine silk thread, taking evj'ry precaution to not let stitches 
catch the coat material — short, ev3n stitches should always be taken 
in the felling of coat linings. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



89 




After you have cut and 
basted your sleeve, try it 
on (unless you are using 
the Russell system, in 
which case it is not neces- 
sary, as the sleeve has 
been cut to your individ- 
ual measure). The sleeve 
lining should be cut one 
inch longer at the top 
than coat material, which 
allows for finishing at the 
arm-eyes. 



After sleeve is made 
and properly shaped at 
elbow and arm-eye, a piece 
of canvas about one inch 
wide and cut on the bias 
should be basted within 
one inch of the bottom of 
the sleeve ; fasten securely 
at seams, then turn ma- 
terial back on canvas, 
baste and press, and fell 
to the sleeve; have lining 
made for sleeves, with 
seams slashed and pressed; 
turn coat sleeve wrong 
side out, slip lining on 
with right side out and 
fell within about three- 
quarters of an inch to the 
bottom of the sleeve. 
Keep in mind that your 
lining is to be one inch 
longer at top than sleeve. 



This shows inside seams 
ami facing, canvased 
ready for lining. 



90 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Now sew sleeve into 
coat as per instructions on 
page 59, taking the coat 
lining in the seam, press 
seam open, baste small roll 
of sheet wadding or pad- 
ding to the seam at the 
shoulder; this should be 
about five inches long, 
extending mostly over the 
front; bring sleeve lining 
over to cover seam, baste 
and fell the extra inch; 
leaving the lining loose 
gives extra wear. 



Now try coat on, after 
it has been properly 
pressed with a damp cloth, 
and mark for buttons, fin- 
ish buttonholes, and sew 
on buttons, being very 
careful not to let the 
thread show through 
where buttons are to be 
sewed. 




Top of sleeve, finished 
ready for lining. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 91 



The same rule previous- 
ly given for the adjusting 
of sleeves at arm-eyes, ap- 
plies to all makes and 
styles of sleeves. After 
you have learned to finish 
the tv\^o-piece sleeves, as 
well as all details given for 
fancy effects in this text- 
book, you will be able to 
complete any kind of a 
sleeve desired. You should 
put on all buttons, trim- 
mings, bound buttonholes, 
fancy cuff sets, as well as 
finish at hand before lin- 
ing. This same rule ap- 
plies to all one and two- 
piece and fancy sleeves. 



Top of sleeve, finished 
and lined, ready for arm- 
eye. 



92 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



The Maude W. Russell System of 
Garment Cutting 

(PATENTED) 




This system does away with all the old-time 
work of drafting and study of making your own 
allowances, which no one can successfully do with- 
out natural talent, or years of drafting. 

It contains the whole art of drafting within it- 
self. Should you lay it aside for years, the simplicity 
of it will readily come back to you, and it has all the 
new and up-to-date lines and style of this date. The 
superiority of this wonderful invention will offer 
its own suggestions for styles in years to come. 



THE RUSSELL COMPANY 

912 Grand Avenue Kansas City, Mo. 



COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 93 



INDEX 



Portrait of Maude W. Russell _ 2 

Foreword 5 

An Open Letter - 6 

Introduction — 7 

Woman's Opportunity — 8 

Woman's Benefits - - 9 

Important Points on Practical Dressmaking 10-11 

Advice on Needles and Thread 12-13 

Stitches— ( With Illustrations) 14-22, 41-45 

Even Basting- 14 

Uneven Basting '. 14 

Combination Basting _ 14 

Loop Stitching - 37 

Chain Stitch 41 

Cross Stitch 41 

Feather Stitching - 42 

Blind Stitch 45 

Catch Stitch 45 

Running Stitch 15 

Back Stitching 15 

Overhanding Stitch 16 

Overcasting Stitch 16 

Blanket Stitch - 17 

Buttonholing .18-20 

Hemming Muslin 21 

Hand Hemming Linen 21 

French Hemming Linen _ 22 

Roll Hem _ 22 

Patching (With Illustrations) 23-25 

Hemmed Patch _ 23 

Patching on Flannel _ - 24 

The Darned Patch - 24 

DaiTiing — Table Linen, Stockings, Underwear 25 

Hemstitching — Illustrated 26 

Gathering — Illustrated - - 27 

Sewing on Lace — Illustrated — 28 

Insertion Work — Illustrated - 29-30 



94 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 



Making Seams — Illustrated 31-40 

Finishing Seams 31 

Finish ing Seams with Binding _ - 32 

Notching Seams - 33 

Overcasting Seams 34 

Felled Seams 35 

Reinforced Seams _ 35 

Tailored Seams 36-37 

Slot Seams 38-39 

French Seams and Knots _ 40 

Belts, Pockets and Fancy Trimmings — Illustrated _....46-50 

Tucks 47 

Embroidery Insertions 48 

Piping 48 

Bias Facings - 49 

Fi tted Facing 49 

Making Collars, Etc. — Illustrated _ 51-52 

Corset Cover — Illustrated .— 53-54 

Underwear _ - 54 

Waists—Ilhisfrated - 55-57 

Drop Shoulder Waist 55-56 

Butterfly Waist 57 

Sleeves— Illustrated - 58-59, 89-91 

Waist Sleeves - 58-59 

Coat Sleeves .: 89-91 

Girdles — Illustrated _ 60-65 

Mounting Skirt on Girdle _ - 62 

Maude W. Russell Girdle -- 63-65 

Skirts,— Illustrated 65-75 

Cutting Skirts - :....66-68 

Hemming Skirts 69 

Shrinking Fullness of Hems 70 

Finishing and Pressing - 71 

Making Plackets 72-73 

Fastening Plackets ..■ '^4 

Shrinking Materials 75 

Plaits .: - 75 

Coatmaking — Illustrated - 76-86 

Cutting Coats _ -....- 83-86 

Pocket in Coat Lining 76-79 

Pocket with Flap : - 79-80 

Pocket Without Flap 81 

Basting and Pressing - .87-88 

Maude W. Russell System of Garment Cutting 92 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



liiillliiillililiill 
014 145 159 5 



THE RUSSELL SYSTEM 
does away with all the 
old-time work of draft- 
ing and study of making 
your own allowances, which no 
one can successfully do without 
natural talent, or years of draft- 
ing. It contains the whole art 
of drafting within itself. Should 
you lay it aside for years, the 
simplicity of it will readily come 
back to you and it has all the 
new and up-to-date lines and 
style of this date. The superior- 
ity of this wonderful invention 
will offer its own suggestions for 
styles in the years to come. 



